I neglected to post these photos from yesterday so I’ll pop them in here.
After a long flight, landing felt like such a relief. Getting through passport control was a breeze.
While we were in the bus line at the airport, headed to Dublin City center, it hit us that we could just grab a taxi for about 5€ more and get dropped off right at the hotel. We hopped into the taxi with some soft classical music playing and our driver rocking that lovely Irish accent. We were thinking totally a smart move!
He was super friendly and filled us in on all the interesting stuff we were passing by, plus he pointed us to the best spot for fish and chips. However, the more he chatted, the more colorful his language became, and by the end of our trip into Dublin, we ended up spending more than twice the bus fare! But it was worth it.
Once we dropped our bags at Albany House Hotel, we hit the streets to check out the city. Albany House is in a great spot on Harcourt Street right in Dublin's city center and a short walk from all the public transport, like the Luas, Dart, and buses, none of which we utilized. Plus, it’s close to all the main sights, including St Stephen’s Green Park, Grafton Street, Temple Bar, Camden Street, the cathedrals and the Dublin Castle.
Dublin is Ireland's capital and biggest city, sitting on Dublin Bay at the mouth of the River Liffey in the Leinster province. It’s surrounded by the Dublin Mountains, which are part of the Wicklow Mountain range. It’s the most populated city on the island of Ireland.
With its rich history, literary vibe, and huge pub scene, Dublin is the perfect kick-off for our adventure. We wanted to check out the city a bit before diving into our 9-day hike along the Wicklow Way tomorrow.
Every corner of Dublin is packed with history, from the grand Dublin Castle to the lively Temple Bar, and let’s not forget the literary legends like James Joyce who’ve made their mark here. The pubs? They’re not just places to grab a drink; they’re where you really experience Dublin life and enjoy some of the best food around.
First stop: Temple University, where the Book of Kells is housed. You must make reservations to enter and the next available slot was several hours away so we moved on.Taking photos is not allowed in the Old Library. I copied these off their website so you can see why it’s such a treasure.
(Photo not mine)
The main chamber of the Old Library is the Long Room; at nearly 65 meters in length, it is normally filled with 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books and is one of the most impressive libraries in the world.
(Photo not mine)
When built (between 1712 and 1732) it had a flat plaster ceiling and shelving for books was on the lower level only, with an open gallery. By the 1850s these shelves had become completely full; largely as since 1801 the Library had been given the right to claim a free copy of every book published in Britain and Ireland. In 1860 the roof was raised to allow construction of the present barrel-vaulted ceiling and upper gallery bookcases. You’ll notice that most of the shelves are now empty as books have been removed for preservation.
Another treasure in the Long Room is one of the few remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic which was read outside the General Post Office on 24 April 1916 by Patrick Pearse at the start of the Easter Rising.
(Photo not mine)
There is also a medieval harp on display known as the Brian Boru harp. The harp is the oldest of its kind in Ireland; it has incorrectly become associated with the great Irish king Brian Boru (died 1014). Although its early history is uncertain, it probably dates from the 15th century. It is made of oak and willow with 29 brass strings, and is the model for the emblem of Ireland.
(Photo not mine)
The Book of Kells is famous for being a masterpiece of medieval art, featuring extraordinarily intricate, vibrant, and dense illuminated manuscript designs created by Celtic monks around 800 AD. As a 680-page Latin Gospel book (it contains the four Gospels of the New Testament). It Is revered for its unmatched artistic detail—including Celtic knotwork, mythical creatures, and rich, imported pigments—surviving over 1,200 years as Ireland's premier cultural treasure.
There was a young man playing an Elton John tune outside. Irish music would have been nice to hear.
Christ Church Cathedral is one of Ireland’s most historic buildings and its story is fascinating.
The earliest manuscript dates Christ Church Cathedral to its present location around 1030. Dúnán, the first bishop of Dublin and Sitriuc, Norse king of Dublin, founded the original Viking church, which was probably subject to the archbishop of Canterbury. By 1152 it was incorporated into the Irish church and within a decade the famous archbishop Laurence O’Toole had been appointed. This future patron saint of Dublin began a reform of the cathedral’s constitution along European lines and introduced the canons regular of Saint Augustine forming a cathedral priory, which was to survive until the Reformation following the liturgical use of Sarum (Salisbury) in England.
In 1742 the cathedral choir together with the choir of St Patrick’s cathedral sang at the world premiere of Handel’s Messiah. How I would have loved to hear that.
Following our visit to Christ Church, we walked on to St Patricks Cathedral enjoying the incredible architecture along the way.
Archbishop John Comyn made it a cathedral, but hats off to Archbishop Luke—he was blind by the time it was done, so he never got to see his Gothic masterpiece! The design? A cross shape, with the Nave as the long part and the Choir at the top, inspired by Old Sarum Cathedral in England.
After the English Reformation, it became Anglican, and they stripped it down like a bad haircut. Statues out, fancy decorations gone! It got so neglected it became a parish church and even doubled as a courthouse. Queen Mary brought it back to cathedral status in 1555, and they added a clock in 1560 and a spire in 1700.
Fast forward to 1901, and they found Celtic grave slabs dating back to the 10th century—one might even be from the well St. Patrick used! So, this site has been a hotspot for over a thousand years.
The Cathedral is filled with sculptures, statues, and stained-glass windows all about St. Patrick. The iconic image of him? An old dude in a fancy hat, but he probably never wore one! He wasn’t exactly an icon in his day.
Speaking of windows, they’re stunning and educational. Kody and I are into stained glass, and these windows told Bible stories to folks who couldn’t read. You read them bottom to top—who knew learning could be so colorful? Sadly, the oldest windows here are from the mid-19th century.
At the West End is the “Saint Patrick’s Window,” showing 39 scenes from his life—made during the Guinness restoration. It cost €500,000 to restore in 2004.
In the North Transept, there’s a window honoring Edward Cecil Guinness, who donated bells in 1897, and three others commemorate various wars.
Irish artist Sarah Purser has a window there too, dedicated to soldiers from the Boer War.
And the window in the South Choir Aisle for Annie Lee Plunkett, a charitable soul is a beauty. The scripture? “I was thirsty and ye gave me drink.”
There are some wonderful quotes scattered throughout the cathedral. A couple of our favorites:
“What the heart loves, the will chooses, and the mind justifies.”
“Christ be with me, Christ within me, Christ behind me, Christ before me”
The phrase to chance your arm is often used when describing someone taking a risk. Yet many people do not know the role this medieval door played in its origin.
In 1492 two feuding families, the Butlers of Ormonde and the Fitzgeralds of Kildare, were engaged in battle. Sensing an impending defeat, the Butlers fled the battlefield and took sanctuary in the Cathedral's Chapter House.
The Figeralds followed in pursuit, but instead of fighting proposed a truce. Calling to the Butlers through the Chapter House door, Gerald Fitzgerald, head of the family, guaranteed them safe passage from Dublin. However, the Butlers refused this offer, believing it to be a trap.
To prove his sincerity, Gerald Fitzgerald ordered a hole be cut in the door. He thrust his arm through it, offering it in peace. Convinced, the Butlers shook his hand. Today, the story lives on in the famous expression, 'to chance your arm’.
Kody contemplating a stairway to?
Our final stop on the historical tour today was Dublin Castle. It’s not your typical looking castle from the outside.
Dublin Castle, built in the early 1200s on a Viking site, was the hub of English, then British, rule in Ireland until 1922 when it was handed over to the Irish government after independence. Now, it’s a major government complex and a must-see for tourists.
As a key piece of Irish history, Dublin Castle served as the seat of British power from 1204 to 1922. It was mainly the home of the Viceroy and a center for ceremonies. Originally a medieval fortress ordered by King John, it had four towers and high walls, built on ground once occupied by Vikings. Most of the original structure survived a major fire in 1684, but the Viking Excavation is currently closed for renovations.
After the fire, the Castle was rebuilt in the late 17th and 18th centuries, transforming it into a Georgian palace with grand State Apartments for the Viceroy. These rooms hosted lavish events like state balls and banquets, especially during the ‘season’. The Chapel Royal, added in the early 1800s, is a stunning Gothic Revival structure and a highlight of Georgian Dublin.
On January 16, 1922, the last Viceroy handed over the Castle to Michael Collins, marking the end of British rule after the Easter Rising and the Irish War of Independence. Since then, it’s been a site for important national events, with every Irish president inaugurated in St Patrick’s Hall since 1938.
Over the centuries, those entertained at Dublin Castle have included Benjamin Franklin (1771), the Duke of Wellington (1807), Daniel O’Connell (1841), Queen Victoria (1849, 1853, 1861 & 1900), Charles Dickens (1864), Countess Markievicz (1905), Princess Grace of Monaco (1961), John F. Kennedy (1963), Charles de Gaulle (1969), Nelson Mandela (1990) and Queen Elizabeth II (2011). Among the famous figures associated with the Castle was Bram Stoker, author of Dracula, who worked here from 1866 to 1878. The Castle now welcomes over a quarter of a million visitors each year.
When we left Dublin Castle, it was time for nourishment and we had not forgotten our taxi driver’s suggestion for fish and chips.
I think we were hungry since I neglected to take a photo before we demolished the fish. This was what remained of one order that we shared.
A day in Dublin would not be complete without a walk across the Ha’penny Bridge.
The Ha'penny Bridge is an iconic 1816 cast-iron pedestrian bridge in Dublin, Ireland, connecting Temple Bar with Ormond Quay over the River Liffey. Officially named the Liffey Bridge, it was formerly a toll bridge costing a halfpenny (ha'penny) to cross until 1919. It is a major symbol of the city.
After a long day of exploring and walking some pretty rough cobblestone streets, we retire to the Albany House hoping for a good nights rest before beginning the first of our two long-distance hikes tomorrow.
Since the flight was long and the day of sightseeing was packed with info about Dublin, I’ll wrap up with this verse for you to think about: 1 Peter 2:11 (ESV): "Beloved, I urge you as sojourners and exiles to abstain from the passions of the flesh, which wage war against your soul." I've been reflecting on this verse for the last several weeks and wanted to share my thoughts, but I’ll save that for another day.
