I totally forgot to share about this lovely family we met on the trail yesterday! We had been hiking all day without a soul in sight when suddenly, this couple in their 70s from Idaho popped around the corner. We struck up a conversation, and it was hilarious when the woman first thought Kody was Irish, only to realize she had a bit of that southern drawl going on! She asked where we were from, and soon after, their daughter—who was also their travel guide—came up the hill. We chatted for a while and had such a great time! Turns out, they’ve walked part of the Camino too and were in fantastic shape. Such a beautiful reminder of the connections we can make on our adventures!
Views from our room
10 miles
est. ascent 1,450' / descent 1,444'
There’s no tea kettle in the room! What?! I’m aghast! I do believe it’s the first time I’ve traveled overseas and haven’t had one. We called the manager and he said the conservatory is open downstairs and we can get coffee and tea there in the morning from 6 am. Alas, no sitting in bed with coffee and tea to ease into the day.
Breakfast in the breakfast room beginning at 8 am. They have a strict checkin, coffee/tea, breakfast schedule here.
Today, we embark on a journey that begins by retracing the last steps we took yesterday, back to the serene monastic city, before moving upward toward the majestic mountain. As we stroll through the enchanting Vale of Glendalough, we find ourselves meandering upstream along a picturesque, forested path. Taking the left fork, we eagerly ascend the hill. After a while, we encounter a switchback, and it dawns on me that we’re not on the same trail as yesterday. A quick check on our apps confirms it—we've veered off course. But fear not! The path we’re on is destined to converge with our original route, so we decide to embrace the adventure.
Though we missed the tranquil beauty of the lower lake, aptly named “Lower Lake,” we press onward. As we climb higher, we catch sight of the next lake, known as, surprise, surprise, “Upper Lake.” Instead of walking beside the water, we’re treated to a breathtaking view from a higher trail. And what a spectacular sight it is!
It's a shared regret that we didn’t capture the enchanting song of the cuckoo bird perched on top of this tree. I know many of you may not have experienced its delightful melody, and it truly is a joy to listen to!
After an exhilarating climb, we finally reached the pinnacle of today's adventure, and it truly brought tears to our eyes. This was undeniably an Ebenezer moment. We are infinitely blessed on this journey—through shared experiences, divine guidance, and the provision of our every need. We are enveloped in His love as we revel in the breathtaking beauty of His creation.
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The rugged path stretches endlessly ahead of us, while the clouds gather in a thick, ominous blanket. Off in the distance, we can spot the rain on the nearby mountain, a reminder of nature's unpredictability and God’s control.
As we approached Glenmalure the mossy forest began to resemble a rainforest and the views did not disappoint.
Drumgoff Barracks is an old military fort from the 1800s at the entrance of Glenmalure in the Wicklow Mountains, Ireland. Built around 1803 after the 1798 Rebellion, it was meant to keep an eye on rebels and prevent French invasions.
The War Office put it up as one of five permanent stops along the route from Rathfarnham to Aughavannagh, designed to hold about 100 soldiers with defensive walls and musket loops. It was reportedly raided and burned by Michael Dwyer’s crew.
Though it was meant for active duty, the threat of rebellion faded, and by the 1830s, it was sold to local miners for housing. Now, the place is pretty ruined, but the outer walls are still standing. Good news—major funding was announced in April 2026 for conservation work to help preserve this historic site!
Bridge at Glenmalure
Waterfall directly across the road from our inn.
The shiny rocks you’ll spot along the Wicklow Way and in the Wicklow Mountains are mostly mica schist and quartzite. They create a cool metamorphic layer around the main granite core of the area. That sparkling look comes from mica minerals like biotite and muscovite, which reflect light as the rocks get worn down by erosion. Oh, and Kody might have snagged a tiny one and tossed it in her suitcase!
A varied and most interesting day was concluded with a tasty meal at the only eatery in town, the pub at Glenmalure Lodge.
I had the ricotta and spinach ravioli, delicious!
While Kody feasted on fish and chips.
We're all set for the next three nights at the Coolalingo B&B! The name comes from the "Coolalingo Bridge" along the Wicklow Way. Maura and Mick Heffeman come from families that have been here for generations, so they really know the area and the community. The place is a cozy little farmhouse nestled in the hills and farmlands of Glenmalure, complete with beautiful garden and Mountain View’s, and yes! there is a tea kettle.
Honestly, we totally fell in love with Maura—she's the sweetest and most accommodating hostess we've met so far! Even though she was getting ready for a wedding, she took the time to give us all the info we needed and even called our transport driver to sort out our change from Sunday to Monday. We had planned a rest day for Monday, but it looks like rain is in the forecast for tomorrow. So, we decided to take it easy tomorrow and save our walk for the sunshine on Monday. Our mamas definitely raised us right!
Today's Stats:
Miles - 9.6
Steps - 23,722
Ascent - 2,224’
Time - 3 hrs 38 min
So, believe it or not, I’m wrapping up this verse I’ve been digging into, and I apologize in advance for how long this post is. As always, feel free to read it or skip it—totally your call.
“Stay away from fleshly desires that fight against your soul” (2:11). Living like pilgrims seems to suggest there's a battle to fight. To abstain means to hold yourself back. Waging war isn’t just one battle; it’s like a whole military campaign. Every believer deals with a lifelong struggle against these desires, which can really take you captive and mess you up.
The fight against sin starts in our minds (1:13-14). If we can win the battle in our thoughts, we’ll win in our actions. All sin begins in the mind, and we’ve got to defeat it there. We need to learn to take every thought and make it obedient to Christ (2 Cor. 10:4). You might remember that I mentioned this verse on one of my training days when I referred to the 'little foxes'.
Just because you become a Christian doesn’t mean that the strong pull toward selfishness and sin disappears. Even if you’ve been walking with God for years, you still have to fight against sin. George Muller, a godly man, prayed as an old man, “Lord, don’t let me become a wicked old man.” He understood the pull of his heart toward sin. Sometimes, we think we’re beyond that and leave ourselves vulnerable to temptation.
It’s worth noting that many of God’s big names who fell into sin did so after years of faithfulness. Noah got drunk after the flood. David, a man after God’s heart, likely fell into sin with Bathsheba in his fifties. Elijah’s faith wavered after boldly speaking God’s Word to Ahab and Jezebel for years. Hezekiah, a righteous king who made great changes, fell into pride later in life. As long as we’re in this body, we need to stay alert and fight against those inner desires that go against God’s will. Our old nature doesn’t just disappear when we become Christians, and, believe me, it doesn’t get weaker as we age. We’re in a battle for as long as we’re in these bodies.
And remember, we can and should obey this command to stay away from those desires, thanks to the power of the Holy Spirit. Sure, those desires are strong. The word “war” suggests it’s a tough, ongoing struggle that requires effort from us. If we give in, we can get trapped by them (2 Pet. 2:18). But through faith in Jesus and the power of the Holy Spirit and God’s Word, we can resist those desires. We can experience victory from God in this battle. All praise and glory to our God and Father!
