WW Day 8 - Tinahely to Shillelagh

The sun was shining brightly as we walked over to D’lish for breakfast. They did not open one single second before 9 am. As a matter of fact it was a bit after 9. We both had an omelette and brown bread, before hitting the trail.

15.4 miles

ascent 1,899.6' / descent 2,007.9'

This is our longest distance to walk on this hike through the Wicklow Mountains and you can see from above, it involves many ups and downs, with the last one being straight up. 

This was a tight turn around the corner and I’m sure the driver of the car on the other side was holding his breath. 

Loads of tiny ferns growing out of the rock wall. 

We left town as we had entered it, though heading straight uphill instead of the downhill we enjoyed yesterday.

Anemone clematis

Getting higher up the hill 

Zoomed in on our lodging. It’s right behind and to the left of the tall building in the center. 

higher and higher we go. 

We passed several cottages before turning south to follow a boreen along the flanks of Glenphilipeen. There were views of the plains of Carlow on our right again as we walked above a series of farmsteads on a green track occasionally hemmed in by stone walls.

We walked on a road alongside Mr O’Connor’s property. He was heading out and stopped to greet us. Asked where we were going and pretty much gave us step by step directions, although we had our trusty apps so we knew the way. He was a delight to listen to even though we couldn’t understand half what he was saying and he couldn’t understand us either. When Kody asked if she could take his photo, he said sure, and sat up proper for her. 

His wife, Mary, painted this little car and planted the garden in front of it. 

Translated “honey meadow” the name of his farm

The stream running over the trail

There were a number of tricky gate crossings and a few questions as to which track to take but we seemed to be all right as long as we maintained our elevation.

We stopped to talk to this lady walking her dog down to the river. She said she goes for a long walk in the morning and another in the evening. She wanted to know all about where we were going. Sweet, sweet lady and we neglected to get her name.  

Loved walking on this grassy trail. 

The views just kept getting better, and with those clear skies, I found every reason to pause and soak it all in. But, of course, that big black cloud hanging out behind us had Kody a little too focused on it. I kept reassuring her—rain? Nah, not on our watch! And even if it did, we've got our trusty raincoats ready. Seriously, we've been so blessed with the weather. So far, no rain, and today’s sunshine made the fields pop with the most vibrant greens. Isn’t God’s creation just amazing?

European magpie

Hairy horse 

This pig was so fat that walking was a challenge, and wagging its tail? That was just too much to ask! 

We start up another of the many climbs on today’s walk and wow, is it ever uphill. It’s a boardwalk, rotted in many places, and almost nose to toes steep. Kody is starting up section one. 

And now section two. 

Carol, in French, is Noel so I had to stop and take a photo of the sign. At least that’s my story and it has nothing to do with trying to catch my breath. 

Kody in section three. 

Looking back down, at the tiny white dot at the bottom, where we started up. We weren’t through climbing though. just finished  with the boardwalk. 

Nell’s well 

A teacup on top of the hill made from a big tire, with what looked like a bicycle tire for the handle. 

Still climbing but on grassy trail with blue sky 

And up some more

Yes, that’s me bringing up the rear

More steep trail

Many stiles to get over, pardon my finger in the photo. 

 If we weren’t stepping in sheep poo, it was cattle poo. Many farms today and loving every one of them 

Waited on this butterfly to land so I could catch a photo of it, and wouldn’t you know it would land on a leaf the same color, so very hard to see it. 

I’m coming, I’m coming

Guineas

Anemone blanda (or charming) also known as windflower 

The Dying Cow pub

Continuing on past the hamlet of Mullinacuff, we strolled along in the sunshine as far as the Stranakelly Crossroads and the famous Dying Cow, one of the few pubs directly on the route. It’s difficult to spot the pub as you’re walking up to it, but just in case, there’s a large wooden Wicklow Way sculpture directly opposite.The name apparently comes from a time when the police raided the pub and accused the owner of serving drinks after hours. She defended herself by saying she was merely giving refreshments to neighbours who had come around to help her with a dying cow! The truth of the story is debateable at best, but it’s a great name for a pub either way.

The Wicklow Way chainsaw-carved statue called "Douglas." This wooden ‘masterpiece’, crafted by Paul Kirwan of Timber & Thread, shows a hiker taking a well-deserved break against a tree (it doesn’t look like any hiker I’ve ever seen). It proudly overlooks the Wicklow Way walking trail, offering a warm welcome to all who venture to this famously remote pub. Fun fact: it was carved from an old Douglas fir tree, which is why it carries that name!

The pub is absolutely tiny inside, but with weather like this, we were much happier at the outside tables anyway.

That’s money on the ceiling 

Taking a well-deserved sparkling water break after making it over halfway (7+ miles of our 14+) today. Cheers to a job well done. 

After a short rest, we stopped procrastinating and started off up the steep road over Cronelea Hill. Funny story though. As we were sitting there enjoying our break, a small electric car pulled up to the corner and saw they had reached the pub they were looking for and stopped. Once the car stopped, they couldn’t get it the rest of the way around the corner to park and it started rolling downhill and died. They revved it up and tried and tried to get it going back up the hill to no avail. Eventually, two very overweight old men got out of the car and the old woman drove it up to park leaving them to walk up the steep hill. We laughed and laughed about that little electric car and how useless it was. 

More alpine poppy

This was a short little wooded area but a fairytale woodland all the same. 

Horn beam tree with shelf mushrooms

Church of St. Finian 1890

Those are some hinges. 

Gate leading into the church

Kody has made a friend 

 

Dairy farm

The views over the surrounding countryside were pretty the whole way, and chased by midges for much of the distance, we made quick work of the final 6km to a junction with a busy road at Boley Bridge.

Pallet building facility. Kim, I’m sure I could find the pallet you’re looking for here. 

Old fashioned weigela 

The incredible weather helped take my mind off the fact that almost all of the remaining 10km or so of the day’s walk would be on paved roads. They were mostly minor country roads, at least, so we didn’t have to dodge much in the way of traffic until the last mile and a half. Whew! It was take a few steps and step into the bushes, take a few more steps and into the bushes again. Very busy road but we made it without incident, just a few prickly thorns in our pant legs. 

The clouds got heavier but nary a drop of rain. 

Arriving Shillelagh, where our taxi driver, Patrick Murphy (how Irish is that?) met us to take us back to Madeleine’s for another night. 

Nestled in the charming village of Shillelagh, just a stone's throw from the Wicklow border, Shillelagh Parish Church is a real gem. Built in 1834, this beautiful Church of Ireland features a unique Gothic style, complete with a striking three-stage tower and spire that was added in 1888. 

The church has a lovely cruciform shape, with the tower proudly standing at the west end. Made from dressed granite, it showcases some amazing architectural details like lateral and corner buttresses, which rise into little turret-like pinnacles. The spire, also octagonal and topped with a weathervane (which I almost cut out of the photo), adds to its charm. 

With a slated pitched roof and granite parapets, the building is as sturdy as it is beautiful. The entrance, located on the north side of the tower, features a lovely timber pointed arch door, while the windows mirror this design and are filled with stunning stained glass. Perched on a rise, the church offers a breathtaking view of the village below. It’s a place where history and beauty come together. 

I really enjoyed today: even though it was a long day, with many steep ups and downs, the combination of scenic views, sunny weather, and new people to meet is always a winner as far as I’m concerned!

We ate at O’Connor’s pub again tonight, there aren’t many choices for dinner in Tinahely. 

I had the roast turkey and ham special. 

Kody had vegetarian penne pasta with salad on top???

I had the gluten free brownie and Kody had the real thing. They look exactly the same so not sure if it was actually gf. 

When we returned to our room they had refreshed our coffee/tea bar with more biscuits (custard creams, shortbread, and digestives). Yumm. 

Today's Stats:

Miles - 14.6

Steps - 33,730

Ascent - 2,054’

Time - 5 hrs 17 min

Keeping with the theme of the wilderness and "wandering", I must mention the Israelites spending forty years wandering in the wilderness after leaving Egypt before they finally reached the promised land. In the grand scheme of their history, that was a pretty short time—just one generation. But all those experiences filled an entire book of the Pentateuch, called Numbers, which is known in Hebrew as “In the wilderness." Psalm 95 cautioned people not to follow in the footsteps of that wilderness generation by testing the Lord (Ps. 95:8–11). Paul told the Corinthians that Israel’s wanderings were “examples for us” (1 Cor. 10:6). So, what can we learn from this crucial time in Israel's journey? There is so much we can learn from them that it has filled books and books.

I think one thing that is important is realizing that it was the Lord who led them there. The wilderness they traveled through was tough and unforgiving. Food and water were hard to come by, and so were other essentials for survival. It definitely wasn’t “a land flowing with milk and honey,” like the Lord described Canaan (Ex. 3:8). Did you know there was actually a shorter, more direct coastal route the Israelites could have taken that would’ve gotten them to Canaan in just days or weeks (not 40 years).

But the Lord decided against that route, “lest the people change their minds when they see war and return to Egypt” (13:17). The Egyptians had forts all along the coastline, and the Philistines who lived there were fierce fighters. Even though the Lord could have easily dealt with these challenges like He did with the Red Sea, He chose to lead His people through the sea and into the wilderness. The wilderness was part of His good plan for them.

Similarly, Israel’s time in the wilderness reminds us that the Lord’s amazing plan for our lives might include tough times, suffering, and challenges, as well as moments of blessing and abundance. The Lord is our Shepherd when He brings us into wild and desolate places in life as well as when He leads us beside still waters and in green pastures (Ps. 23). All these paths are part of His journey to bring us to our ultimate place of rest in Him.