A bit of a sunrise this morning.
After a buffet breakfast at the Albany House (same hotel we stayed in 10 days ago), a taxi picked us up and dropped us off at the Heuston Train Station. The driver was a very nice Irish man who talked about country music stars Dolly Parton and Garth Brooks. Fun fact: Garth only tours in the US and Ireland.
Today we travel to Tralee, where we will begin our second hike of this great adventure - The Dingle Way.
The Dingle Way is a 113 mile trail that circles the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry Ireland. It has breathtaking views and all the Irish country atmosphere you could ask for as well as one extreme day of climbing.
I first visited Dingle back in 2001 and instantly fell in love. That trip made me realize I needed to come back—not just to the town itself, but to explore more of the peninsula. Jo Anne and I did just that by car in 2016. Then I heard about a long-distance hike that loops around the entire area, connecting one village to the next: The Dingle Way. From that moment, as a long-distance hiker, I knew hiking the Dingle Way had to be on my list.
I wasn’t sure when I’d get the chance, but the idea of spending my days walking through mountains, across fields, and along wild beaches stuck with me. So, here we are.
The walk begins in Tralee, so it is there that we are headed by train from Dublin today. Tralee, the capital of County Kerry, is a mix of history and modern charm. Founded by the Normans in 1216, its character really shines through in the 18th-century architecture along streets like Denny Street and Day Place.
Another fun fact: Tralee is home to the world-famous Rose of Tralee competition, where Irish women and those of Irish descent are celebrated for their personality and spirit—not just their looks. The event wraps up with a gala ball and a lively “midnight madness” parade led by the newly crowned Rose.
Our train
The train ride from Dublin is a leisurely 3.5 hours, with a very quick change of trains (get off one train and walk onto the next) in Mallow. Our first leg was pure tranquility in the quiet car—absolute bliss! But then came the second leg, where it felt like a thousand tiny tornadoes had invaded, complete with their noise-making toys. And let’s be real, the moms were the true chaos creators! It was a symphony of madness! The silver lining? At least we won’t be sharing the trail with that raucous crew!
So, there I was, watching YouTube videos about the Dingle Way, and stumbled upon a gem of a restaurant known for its legendary chips: The Green Rooster, affectionately dubbed Greasie Jimmy’s by the locals. I mean, who wouldn’t want to chow down at a spot with a name like that? With visions of those tantalizing chips (and perhaps a veggie burger for Kody) dancing in our heads, we made our way there. But alas, the moment we stepped inside, we were greeted by an aroma that could only be described as... less than appetizing. Not exactly the vibe we were hoping for!
Next, we tried a place recommended by our hotel, but it turned out to be cafeteria-style dining—definitely not our scene. After a bit more digital sleuthing, we finally landed on Benners, a cozy pub-style spot that boasted a wood-fired pizza menu. Now that was more like it!
Kody is studying the pizza menu.
As we were finishing our meal, a family from New York came in and sat next to us. We had great conversation with them. Always fun to meet people and share stories. They had been in both Oklahoma and Texas and experienced severe winds there.
St John's Church was completed in 1870. The elegant sixty metre high spire dominates the landscape of Tralee from all directions. It’s a beauty!
Post-pizza feast, we strolled back to our oh-so-charming hotel and started prepping our backpacks for the adventure awaiting us tomorrow.
Next up was our pre-hike carb-loading extravaganza! With a dessert menu that could make anyone weak in the knees, we made our way downstairs to indulge in some sweet research.
We both decided on the lemon curd ice cream sundae with flamed meringue topping.
It was pretty tasty.
Thankfully, the Dingle Way does not have the constant ascents/descents we experienced on the Wicklow Way, but it does have one of the biggest ascents of the entire journey.
I've spoken much about our life's journey. Where do we get strength for our journey? “Guide Me Oh Thou Great Jehovah”. It goes without saying, from the Lord Himself. However, the Christian life is not designed to be an autonomous journey of self-reliant faith. Friendship, fellowship, and mutual support of other believers play a crucial role in reaching our destination. Never was that more clear to me than yesterday with the phone saga. Kody was a never-ending, unfailing strength through it all. God, in His great mercy, gives us just the right people, at just the right times in our lives, to walk with us. I’m reminded of the scripture:
“Two are better than one, because they have a good reward for their toil. For if they fall, one will lift up his fellow. But woe to him who is alone when he falls and has not another to lift him up!” (Ecclesiastes 4:9-10)
As we traverse this dark wilderness to the lush hills of the new creation, Jesus promises to guide, instruct, feed and nourish His redeemed pilgrims through the ordinary means of grace. Through the ministry of the Word, Christ gives us Himself and powerfully reminds us that we do not make our way alone. He is with us, along with our fellow pilgrims, and what better way to travel?
