DW Day 4 - Dingle to Dunquin

 As we lounge in bed, contemplating the day's journey, the sky decides to shower us with a surprise rain slashing at the window. Good news: the rain is set to take a hike in about 25 minutes. Bad news? Today’s “feels like” temps are flirting with 30° to 35°, accompanied by winds that could practically lift a small car—25 to 40 mph! Oh, and did I mention my raincoat has the waterproof capabilities of a soggy paper towel? Fun times ahead!

We both requested the veggie omelette this morning and breakfast is set to begin at 8. Praying for clear skies and a sun filled day. 

13.9 miles (another very long day)

ascent 1,400.9' / descent 1,292.7' (of very steep ascents/descents)

As we depart the B&B, we see blue skies. But it’s very cold. 

I mentioned Fungie yesterday. 

Fungie the Dingle Dolphin is not considered alive. He disappeared in October 2020 at over 40 years old, having lived in Dingle, Ireland, since 1983. After weeks of searching, he was widely accepted to have passed away or moved on, with locals acknowledging his likely death. 

He was last seen on October 13, 2020.

Fungie was known as the oldest solitary wild dolphin in the world, having spent 37 years interacting with humans in Dingle. While some locals initially hoped he had moved elsewhere, by 2021 he was generally accepted as deceased.

The chill in the air was so intense that the wind practically styled our hair into a trendy backflip!

From Dingle, we kept heading west, through low-lying farmland to the glorious golden sands of Ventry Beach.

If you looked at the elevation photo above, you know we have two very steep climbs today. 

And climbing we did. 

A wind tunnel

Did I mention we are climbing?

And no, it’s not a crooked picture. I’m climbing a steep hill. 

mama with her babies 

There are ruins everywhere you turn 

The LÉ George Bernard Shaw (P64) is a Samuel Beckett-class offshore patrol vessel (OPV) operated by the Irish Naval Service. As of late 2020, it has been photographed conducting inshore patrols, including in the Dingle Bay area near Ventry, Co. Kerry. It is a 90-meter-long ship designed for maritime security and fisheries protection.

The trail leads down to the beach. 

The donkey came to see if we had any treats for him. 

Not exactly beach weather 

The waves were serenading us, lulling us into a blissful silence as we strolled along the shore. But then, oh boy, the wind decided to join the party, pelting us with a sandy confetti that found its way into my eyes, Kody’s Carmex, and every nook and cranny of our hair and boots. It wasn't until I discovered a beach's worth of sand in my shower that I realized just how much of a sandy souvenir we’d collected!

Gorgeous pink flowers—Armeria Maritima—lined the edge of the path, adding little bursts of color along the coast.

Scaling that dreaded tarmac was a real treat 🙄—thank goodness for those hedgerows that shielded us from the wind... until they decided to turn into a wind tunnel, that is!

Baa baa black sheep - beautiful little lamb

English stonecrop 

Eventually, the Dingle Way led us onto quiet country roads, bordered by lush green fields dotted with sheep. Stone walls stretched across the landscape in every direction, and for most of the day, the sea stayed in view off to our left.

The wind was relentless!

We climbed and climbed with a harsh headwind 

Nestled along the stunning Slea Head drive from Dunquin to Ventry, the Dun Beag promontory fort reaches out into Dingle Bay, offering breathtaking views of the Skellig Islands and Valentia Island. Back in 1977, the Office of Public Works took on a significant excavation project at Dun Beag, led by the brilliant Professor Terry Barry from Trinity College Dublin. Their goal? To uncover the history and timeline of this fascinating site. It’s a race against time, as Dun Beag faces the relentless forces of erosion and storms, slowly inching toward the sea.

The wind blew the rain and it pelted our faces like sleet. 

While we were climbing along the top of the cliffs, we met Sharon from Maine resting on a big stone in the minute or two of sun she could find. We had a very nice chat with her. She has been hiking with a friend, but the friend had to find a Dr today for what sounded like an allergic reaction to something, so she was out by herself. 

Steep ups and downs

Imagine wandering through the echoes of time, where remnants of 2,500-year-old historic forts and ancient stone beehive huts stand as testaments to resilience. Once the humble abodes of early Christian hermits, these structures, though roofless now, still whisper stories of exceptional craftsmanship—stones perfectly balanced without a trace of mortar.

On the breathtaking Dingle Peninsula in Ireland, the Beehive Hut Structures, or Clochans, capture our imagination. These remarkable creations feature corbelled roofs, ingeniously crafted by stacking stone rings to form a snug, pointed top. They served as homes from ancient times until around 1200 AD, a sanctuary of peace and reflection.

Picture the monks who once inhabited these beehive-shaped stone huts, where they prayed and found solace. Many of these humble dwellings endure, standing as symbols of faith and endurance long after the monks departed in the thirteenth century. This island transformed into a pilgrimage site, offering refuge for Catholics during the challenging times of the Penal Laws. Each stone tells a story of devotion and perseverance, inviting us to reflect on our own journeys.

And still climbing 

Of course the views from the top are indescribable 

With views over the Atlantic, we spotted the mystical Blasket Islands offshore.

As we approached Dunquin, the trail followed a mountain path high over the sea. I stopped a few times at the cliffs edge just to take it all in—the sea felt endless. Like it was stretching out beyond everything. 

A sheer drop off to the sea below. This area is part of the Wild Atlantic Way and it’s easy to see why it’s called that. The sea is churning at the base of the cliff. 

For the next couple of nights, we've checked into the Dunquin House. This place is the perfect escape, nestled near the dramatic Dunquin Pier and along the picturesque Slea Head Drive, renowned for its jaw-dropping coastal views. The area is steeped in history and nature, often dubbed "where heaven touches earth." Our room? Oh, it comes with an ocean view and a front-row seat to the “sleeping giant.” Talk about waking up to a masterpiece! Can you see him out there, middle of the photo above, on the horizon?

Tomorrow is our designated rest day—activities are still up in the air, aside from the thrilling adventure of laundry. Speaking of which, we were all set to use the laundry facilities, but when I inquired, the answer was a firm “no.” We can hand wash in a basin next to her lovely washer and dryer, but those beauties are off-limits. At this point, our clothes are practically begging for a wash, so we might just find ourselves channeling our inner laundry warriors in the wash tub!

There’s only one place to eat in Dunquin and it’s Kruger’s Bar. 

Krugers Bar has two claims to fame: it is Europe’s most westerly bar, and it’s known for its association with the film industry. The bar was featured in the 1970 movie “Ryan’s Daughter,” directed by David Lean, and starring Robert Mitchum. The movie helped to put Dunquin and the Dingle Peninsula on the map, making it a popular tourist destination.

They have a very limited menu and when I went to order the Irish beef stew, I was hit with the wonderful news they were sold out. 

Kody had veggie pizza

I had a ham toastie on sourdough 

Inside view of the pub with coasters on the ceiling. 

We both splurged on sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

Today's Stats:

Miles - 15.6

Steps - 38,431

Ascent - 2,021’

Time - 5 hrs 47 min

"Be Thou still my strength and shield," very Psalm-like language here, where God is often called our deliverer. We can count on Him to save us from evil, just like we pray in the Lord's Prayer. Ultimately, He’s rescued us from lives filled with sin and guilt, leading us to a life that’s clean and holy. Over and over again in the Bible God is seen as our strength. Remember how Williams wrote, "I am weak but Thou Art mighty"? Here, he’s asking God to be his strength. 

I'm reminded of the Psalm: "The Lord is my strength and my shield; in him my heart trusts, and I am helped; my heart exults, and with my song I give thanks to him." (Psalm 28:7) It describes a shift from anxiety to joy, resulting in praise, as the believer finds security in God's presence rather than our own abilities. Let me say that again in case you skimmed over it: a shift from anxiety to joy!

It’s a beautiful thing to say, “my strength and my shield.” Some have a theoretical knowledge of God as a strength or shield, without knowing the goodness of it in their lives. Spurgeon said, "'The Lord is my strength,’ you can bear anything and everything. You could bear a martyr’s death if the Lord should be your strength. He could make a stalk of wheat to bear up the whole world if he strengthened it.” We might feel weak, but with Jesus as our deliverer and shield, we have all the strength we need for whatever life throws our way.