DW Day 8 - Cloghane to Harbor House

Mt. Brandon Lodge B&B didn’t quite meet our expectations. It’s safe to say it won’t be making the list for any future stays. 

16.7 miles

ascent 141' / descent 210'

Today's hike was another one for the senses. Impressive glacial valley views stretch ahead as we stride out of Cloghane. The narrow, single-track roads led us out of town, over old stone bridges, and past quiet fields where sheep grazed like they had all the time in the world. Although this is supposed to be the longest stage, you’ll notice our B&B is at least 4 miles from where we are supposed to end today’s walk. Since that would be more than 16 miles today and we only have about 8 tomorrow, we will stop at the inn and add those 4 miles to tomorrow, making both days around 12 miles. I look forward to extended flat beach walking along the shores of Brandon and Tralee Bays, an absolute joy! However, I love them more when it’s not raining and that is the forecast for today. 100% chance of rain and as we lie here in bed listening to it, the forecast is so far accurate.

Ok, well as we saunter downstairs to breakfast the skies open up for a downpour and a sprinkle of tiny hail. Maybe it will get it all out of its system before we take off. 

Knowing how my raincoat leaked and searching unsuccessfully for a rain poncho, I asked the innkeeper if she had a large garbage bag I could have. She did. 

Styling it in my makeshift poncho. The innkeeper said I had a fine apron. 

Still raining as we leave but not too heavily. 

The slugs were out from all the rain. 

Tide is going out

Dames-violet 

Ivy covered tree trunks 

We passed loads of holly some even had berries 

About 3 miles of tarmac walking before we hit the beach. 

Raining heavier now. 

Eventually, we reached Fermoyle Strand—the longest beach on the Wild Atlantic Way, a seemingly endless string of thundering waves crashing onto a fantastic 7 miles of golden sand and dunes. Golden sand, crashing waves, and that wide, open feeling you only get at the edge of the world.

We experienced different weather patterns all day, starting off with rain and wind pelting us from behind, pushing us down the beach. Then we had bouts of no rain, the sun peeking through the clouds and back to rain again. 

The beach was practically a crab convention, with little crustaceans strewn across the sand. I decided to showcase one by plopping my boot beside it for size comparison—check out that soggy footwear! Yep, my feet still got a good splash, even with my so-called waterproof gators and boots. 

Sun trying to break through 

The clouds are coming in fast behind us. 

Trap full of stones. There were several of these old traps washed ashore. 

Common murre - spends most of its time at sea only coming ashore to breed. 

There are riding tours along the beach as well. 

Kody is headed for the B&B 

We stopped at Boos Coffee Truck across from Spillane’s for a hot chocolate and cappuccino. 

It was cold and raining hard so it hit the spot. 

Arriving Fahamore 

More pink thrift

Loads of seaweed 

Harbour House B&B is located in Fahamore, right on the south-west coast of Ireland, at the tip of a small peninsula. As we were waiting to get checked in, a taxi pulled up and the 7 other American hikers, that we’ve seen from time to time, rolled out of the van. We said, “busted!” They didn’t walk today and couldn’t believe we did. Well of course we did. It takes more than a little rain to keep us down. 

Our room

Harbor House has a pool room that we can use for drying out our gear. My makeshift poncho didn’t work. I had on two shirts, my sweatshirt jacket, my raincoat and the fashionable garbage bag, and still got soaked through it all. 

Dinner plans are set for 5 at Spillane’s, the lone culinary gem on the peninsula—just a breezy/rainy10-minute stroll from the inn. The pool room turned into a cozy dry sauna that worked wonders for drying everything out. But let’s be real, the thought of braving the rain again after our refreshing cleanup isn’t exactly thrilling!

As we made our way downstairs, on our way out to Spillane’s for dinner, we bumped into the seven fellow walkers—who had cleverly snagged a ride! With the rain coming down in buckets, we couldn’t resist asking if we could hitch a ride with them. Talk about a blessing! Turns out, all we need to do is give the inn a ring after our meal, and if the driver’s free, he’ll swing back to collect us. He was, so we dodged the whole soggy shoe situation again. Hallelujah for our Lord’s provision!

Started off with sparkling water

I had the PANFRIED SCALLOPS 

With butternut squash risotto, saffron cream sauce, roast potato & veg

Kody had EGGPLANT PARMIGIANNA 

Sliced Aubergine topped with tomato sauce & mozzarella cheese with linguine

She said it’s the best eggplant parmesan she’s ever had.

I had Baileys cheesecake for dessert

Kody had warm apple cake 

The rain is still pouring, and the wind? Well, let’s just say it’s throwing a tantrum worthy of a soap opera. According to the driver, this is January or February’s vibe, not what we signed up for in May! Those waves are practically frothing at the mouth. It’s as if the sea is having a very bad day!

Today's Stats:

Miles - 10.8

Steps - 25,889

Ascent - 102’

Time - 3 hrs 24 min

So, that's the song, "Guide Me Oh Thou Great Jehovah". I love looking into the origin of old hymns, don't you? There's so much depth and meaning. I know I've kind of been all over the place in my thoughts over the past 3 weeks so let me see if I can tie it all together in your mind, the way it has been in mine.

The nation of Israel had left Egypt, the country where they had been slaves for many years, but they had not yet arrived in the Promised Land. Sometimes they camped in one place for months, but eventually they moved on again. No dwelling could be permanent until they reached Canaan. That is why they lived in tents and not houses. Nowadays, it seems like everyone wants to create a paradise here on earth. A bit more money, better education for everyone, a fairer society, and a few more gadgets, and we could all enjoy seventy or eighty years of bliss! That was never the Christian hope, and we need to be constantly reminded that we are only temporary residents of this earth and permanent residents of the new earth. We will only be a "waiting people" if we remember that our true home is with our Savior and is still ahead of us.

This world is not my home, I'm just passing through, but there is much work to do along the way.